Hi folks

Now that I have a reliable computer I've gone back and put some more photos on the more recent posts. Feel free to go back and have a look.

Now where was I...Oh yes, Aug 25.

Leaving our farm B&B at Lille we headed to Vimy Ridge. For you non-history buffs let me set the stage for you...

The battle for Vimy Ridge was fought in April, 1917, on the Easter week-end. It has been said that, at Vimy, Canada became a nation.

Vimy Ridge is a very prominent ridge and was strategic real estate in 1917. In fact, one German is quoted as saying that whoever controls Vimy, wins the war. Prior to 1917, both the British and the French had tried unsucessfully to wrestle Vimy from the Germans without success. When the Canadians offered to have a go at it, the Allies figured that it could do no harm. In preparing for the battle the Canadians employed a number of techniques that were groundbreaking at the time. In fact, they are management and organizational development tools to this day: cross training and leadership at every level. The Canadians ensured two things: that evey soldier knew what everyone else's job was so he could step into his comrade's shoes if necessary, and, that every soldier was shown the map and battle plans and knew what the overall and unit objectives were. This was unheard of in a previous top-down military culture.

As well they employed a number of unique military tactics, the most amazing of which were the extensive tunnels that they dug to hide and protect troop movements. The tunnels were so long that they were referred to as subways and we had a chance to tour one of these known as the Durange Subway.

(Many years I read Pierre Burton's "Vimy Ridge" which I would highly recommend it if the subject is of further interest)

Like Beaumont Hamel, Vimy has an excellent interpretive centre staffed by Canadian students. Our tour guide of the subway/tunnel system was Jon from New Brunswick and he delivered an informative and provocative commentary. Apart from some roof shoring done in the 1920's, the tunnels are as they were 90 years ago with the same chalk walls. It was a fascinating glimpse into the past.

We also walked around the surface through the trenches of both sides and marvelled at the mine and shell craters everywhere that make it look like the surface of the moon. Despite the enormous disturbances to the ground by the shelling, there remains untold numbers of unexploded shells beneath the surface. Frost and tree roots can heave these to the surface; to this day the danger is so great that vast areas of the site are roped off and sheep, not lawn mowers, cut the grass.

(An interesting side note to this is that, during the Battle of the Somme, we were told that the shells had an 80% dud rate, and that they were American shells. Apparently the Americans took advantage of selling their arms to both sides of the conflict. Some things never change....)

Sadly the impressive Vimy Memorial is being renovated and was under cover at the time of our visit. The memorial is about 80 years old and, over the years, acid rain has not been kind to the structure. What little glimpses we saw, and pictures we've seen, hint at a very grand monument.
They are renovating it for the 90th anniversary next year, sure to draw thousands back to the site.

Just one corner of the Vimy memorial that is visible

Leaving Vimy in mid afternoon we dove home to Zwolle. The trip was uneventful except for a nasty traffic back up in Antwerp. (Belgium). We later learned it was due to some flooding from some heavy rain the day before. It was interesting to pass through the old border between Belgium and France that existed prior to the EU. The old border buildings are still standing, except, rather than stop, you just pass between them and keep on going.

Jonas' photo of us passing into Belgium from France

We put approx 3200 km's on the van and it treated us well. The passengers were patient with the driver's many faux pas and missed gears and the boys were constantly debating over who was going to be co-pilot next (sitting between me and whoever was in the front navigating)

Scott's impressions of France:
*the toll roads were annoyiong but loved the 130 km/hr speed limit
*wherever you looked there was a centuries old church spire reaching for the heavens. A vivid reminder of the country's spiritual history
*fell in love with Normandy, the stone homes and walled farms, the well kept homes with the colourful flowers, the hedgerows, the breakfasts
*The bread, the cheese, the wine! Every small town has a boulangerie (bakery), or two or three. We lost count of how many French we saw walking down the street with a loaf under their arm or several in a basket. We also lost count of how many loaves we ate ourselves.
*the narrow country roads running off in every direction on the compass with not a grid pattern in sight. The many small towns along each road consisting of a cluster of homes and invariably a church...and a boulangerie!
*still trying to understand the French's infatuation with dogs or the public "drop" toilets
*the tragic and frequent reminders of war and death. The many WWII memorials scattered through out Normandy and the large memorials and many graveyards in the north in the Somme region. The country has had a bloody history. We are so blessed in Canada.

Until next time....